2000 - Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan

Impressive concentration aromatically, with sweet black cherry fruit, chargrilled oak, plenty of character. A little disappointing on the palate, with wet leaves, autumnal black fruits that lose power through the finish. There is plenty of attractive black pepper and truffle spice, and the ecualyptus notes on the finish give a kick, but it lacks the clarity of expression that you find in more recent years of Carmes. Made at the time by Penelope Chantecaille-Furt, whose family had owned Carmes since the French Revolution. 3.6ph. 30% new oak.

The 2000 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is a blend of 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a vintage that I have not tasted since just after bottling. It’s beginning to brick on the rim but still displays good depth of color. The nose is a little rustic and slightly animally, showing saddle leather, broom, undergrowth/peat and black fruit. There’s good intensity here, but maybe just a touch of brettanomyces. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, quite dry tannins. Muscular and grippy with a balsamic-tinged finish, the 2000 packs quite a punch, although it does have bucolic charm. I would drink bottles now, although I suspect this will remain solid for the next 12–15 years.